Versailles Grand Canal and the Paris Opera: Trip to France 17/28

Biking the Versailles Grand Canal

The only thing I hadn’t done at Versailles that I wanted to do- other than move in- was make my way around the Grand Canal. I had wanted to ride my bike around it at my visit, but I ran out of time two days ago. Plus, that bike wasn’t in the best shape. The suspension was so-so and the ride rattle-y.

Well…guess what was in the lobby of my hotel? A bike! And it had a sign on it that said, “Rent me” en français, Louez–moi! Well, I asked to rent the bike not realizing that the sign literally seemed to be for that bike since the front desk woman plucked off the sign and handed the bike to me. Considering many people travel in pairs, this seemed weird to me but the bike was fine so off I went!

It was definitely an upgrade from the bike the other day. In other news, I’ve grown soft and was sad that I had no e-assist. So lazy.

But the ride was fantastic! The route around the grand canal is just over 3 miles! Amazing. It was a misty morning with some sun and really, just a delightful experience. There were runners, walkers, and a few other bikers but everyone was very dispersed.

Versailles Farmers Market

I flirted with the idea of going into the Trianon gardens again, but they didn’t open until 12. So I headed back to the hotel, but stopped at a marché I came across and bought the most delicious figs and two green heirloom tomato’s. Finally, I went back to my hotel, checked out at 11, and returned to Paris.

I had bought a ticket to Handel’s Ariodante at the Palace Garnier opera house. A friend strongly recommended it, so I felt it would be good to go. I really like Handel’s orchestral works so I knew it would be an enjoyable experience.

An enjoyable afternoon of a luxurious lunch and some shopping

For the afternoon, I went shopping. First, I went to the Grand Epicure for what I thought would be window shopping. But then I came across an in-grocery truffle bar. Since I’ve been reading a book on great French meals and I had just read the truffle chapter, I was in a place of weakness. So, for lunch, I had a gourmet lunch of truffle scrambled eggs and a glass of champagne. Amazing.

Then, I bought a handbag I had been eyeing from Ganni, did some damage at CityPharma, and browsed at Nomesai shoes. The CityPharma experience was intense! So crowded. I bought a lot of things to try, including an expensive serum recommended by a slightly bossy Dutch lady who worked there. Warnings about caring for my neck followed me to the register. I hope SMS understands how important neck care is…I think the odds are slim on that one!

Rue Vivienne

On my walk, I came across the covered shopping arcade of Rue Vivienne. It is amazing. It’s very old, as there are tiled signs for business that are now other store fronts. For example, the optometrist is now a clothes boutique. It was an incredible find- I don’t think it’s IG/TT famous because unlike other places, it was pretty quiet from a people posing perspective.

Then, I went to my hotel, got ready for the opera, and took the bus across the city. This was a mistake. Admittedly, I was cutting it really close but the bus was caught in the worst traffic and took way longer than the trip estimate from Google maps. Argh. So, I missed the first act.

So, I grabbed an apero.

Then, I went in with several other late friends once the doors opened after the first act. I picked up my order-ahead champagne for I am my parents’ daughter.

Paris Opera Kerfuffle

Then, I went to my seat. I was in one of the fold down chairs that blocks the aisles. It is unique set-up I had never seen before but knew what to expect based on the ticketing. You basically stand in the aisle until the lights go down and then you sit. Well, the music started, the lights went down, and this old man said, “That’s my seat” and just plopped himself down. I whispered that it was mine and was met with a curt “Non” and there was nothing I could do. So, I sat down in the fold down seat behind him, much to the chagrin of his wife.

Now, good sir, don’t you think it would make sense if you went to the opera with your wife, that you would have seats together? That the single fold down seat might not be yours since there are two behind it and you could sit next to your wife. Alors, this is not how he thought.

Anyway, his wife was all sorts of pissy, huffing, puffing, and shifting a lot. I was only marginally less out-of-sorts since I really hadn’t been expecting to sit thigh-to-thigh with a stranger. So, I shot her a few looks in return.

But, the music was pretty transportive, and I was over it enough for the act. At the end, I told him it was my seat and he again said no. So, I marched off, used the bathroom, came back with plenty of time, and confirmed with the usher that it was my seat.

He came back, I pointed out that his seat 29 was the one I had sat in. Admittedly, I was pretty steamed and he was a real asshole, telling me to “Be cool” since the conversation devolved into Franglish pretty quickly. Anyway, I told him, in French, that the seat was me and that it was expensive, so I wanted it.

So, I sat in my own seat for the third act! Yes, there are three acts in Ariodante so lucky me.

Anyway, I guess I’m fated to have a seat discussion every 20 years or so, since a similar thing happened to me on a train in my 20s. It is so infuriating when an old man is so f***g sure that he’s in the right seat and it takes a ridiculous amount of time to sort out. And then, when he’s wrong, a little “poof” with the lips and shrug like, “Well, that’s life I guess.” Um, an apology would be nice but these type of men probably don’t even apologize to anyone in their lives, so why would they a stranger?

BTW, in case you’re wondering, the opera was pretty good but definitely had some unique elements apart from the three, instead of two, acts. One, the book is in Italian, which I wouldn’t have expected from Handel. Two, there was a lot of harpsichord. Three, the lead male part is written for a castrato. In this production, it was sung by a woman dressed as a man. Although one of the supporting roles was played by a man singing falsetto. He was good, but it was an unusual register to hear song by a man.

I was also thinking about castretos. Like, seems like a pretty big decision to make without a guarantee that your voice would be preserved or you’d get roles. What if a boy went through that, got no parts, and that just sat around in a bar, saying in his high-pitched voice, “I could have been a contender.” That would be pretty depressing.