Cycling from Amboise to Chenonceau: Trip to France 20/28

I based myself in Amboise for 3 nights with the intention of biking around the Loire Valley. Don’t get me wrong, I’m talking day trips and e-bikes. I clarify because there are people who do multi-day trips across the Valley. There is excellent signage along the way for La Loire à Velo. I only scratched the surface and it was a fantastic experience.

After breakfast in the B&B, I went to the bike shop to rent a e-bike for 2 full days. I had the plan to bike during the day and lazily bike along the Loire at sunset. That didn’t completely work out since I was out too late both evenings.

On this day, I followed circuit 47, La Voie Royale. It started in Amboise and my main destination was Château de Chenonceau.

Amboise Farmers Market

I had a false start heading out of town since I came across the farmer’s market. I bought figs, apples from an apples-only lady with a cute truck and wooden crates, and oysters & knife. I dropped everything off at the room where there was a refridgerator. It was going to be a delicious treat for later.

Biking to Chenonceau

I headed out after lunch, heading counter-clockwise if you look at the route pdf. It turns out, this was mostly dedicated bike paths through the vineyards- spectacular! The second half, in contrast, were mainly back roads which was fine because it was really quiet. But my preference is definitely completely separate bike paths.

Along the way, I passed signs noting places of historical importance.

I stopped at a park with hammocks, which I also saw in Reims. So cool, although these hammocks were more comfortable in concept than reality. The wooden chaises were more comfortable.

Touring Chenonceau

Then I arrived! After buying my ticket with the audioguide, I walked down the tree-lined drive. The French really, really know how to do a tree-lined drive, usually oak. I’ve seen it in several places and love it!

Chateau view from the garden
From the garden wall along the river

I wandered through the Medici garden before heading into the castle.

View from the first floor balcony

I really liked the audioguide, although I was a little confused by the POV of the narrator. It was being told from the viewpoint of a woman who owned it in the late 1800s, but had to eventually sell. I think she was chosen to keep the narrative of the Chateau of the Dames since women figure pretty prominently in the chateau’s history. But I couldn’t follow her story and I didn’t really care. Give me the Catherine de’Medici vs. Diane de Poitiers drama!

The white squares are tufa (limestone) and relatively worn!

Catherine finished the bridge that the galley is built upon. It’s very beautiful and addressed a shortcoming of the chateau; it was too small and hard to host a party. Small is not what I initially thought about the place, but I get they needed ballroom-size space. I’m putting that on my own list of house requirements.

There were several bedrooms that were sumptuous. I’m not sure how comfortable the beds would actually be but they looked great!

The rooms were beautifully decorated.

The kitchens were huge and even had a little stone dock where boats would tie up while delivering supplies.

After the tour, I went outside and toured the Daphne de Poitiers’ garden.

After that, I toured the grounds which included gardens, a labyrinth, and a little donkey pen!

Then it was time to head back as I realized I was burning daylight!

A lot of logs
Oysters!

I got back to the hotel right at sunset and had a delicious oyster and cheese dinner. Delicieux!

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