Getting to Matsushima Bay
After a fun morning in Tokyo, I took the Shinkansen to Sendai followed by a local JR train to Matsushima, a coastal hot spring resort area overlooking Matsushima Bay, filled with small islands and considered one of the top most scenic bays in Japan. While it is very pretty, I wouldn’t make a trip just for the view. But I would recommend a visit for an amazing, reasonably-priced onsen hotel, an incredible sushi spot, a few nice walks and, yes, while there, take a 1 hour cruise around the bay!
Train specifics include taking the Tohoku shinkansen from Tokyo to Sendai. You can transfer straight through the local gates or take a walk around the medium-sized station with a small market and several shops. Note: if you are planning on leaving your luggage in a locker, do it in Sendai and not Matsushima! Next, switch to the local JR Tohoku line and travel ~25 minutes to Matsushima. From there, I walked the kilometer to the hotel but taxis are available.
Quick Facts
- Getting there: Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Sendai, then a ~25-minute local JR Tohoku line ride to Matsushima
- Luggage tip: Leave large luggage in a locker at Sendai Station, not Matsushima — Matsushima’s lockers are limited and ¥100 coin-only
- Where I stayed: Komatsukan Kofutei (松島 小松館 好風亭), a shoreline onsen hotel with bay views
- Don’t miss: Matsushima Bay cruise, Zuiganji Temple, sushi at Sushi-dokoro Ono (すし処 小野)
- How long to stay: 24 hours is enough to see it; 48 hours is more relaxing if you have the time
How to manage your luggage
While Japan is famous for the KuroNeko (Black Cat) shipping service for luggage, I tend to pack light enough that I don’t need the service to send things ahead. In addition, although there’s not much of a lag time, there is a 24-48 hour interval between sending and receiving the luggage. So for quick overnight trips, it’s not the best option. For my Matsushima trip, I wanted to bring my carry-on only and leave my suitcase with conference attire, etc in a locker. I had read there were lockers in Matsushima station and technically, there were. But it was a small locker bank and the two larger lockers had signs saying they were broken (thanks Google Translate Lens!). I had a stroke of luck though. A worker was collecting the money from the lockers and I asked in my best Pimsleur Japanese if the locker was available. She said yes, took down the broken sign, and made sure I got my suitcase in without difficulty. I’m glad she waited because she exchanged my ¥500 coin for five ¥100s, which were the only coins accepted. There was no money change machine in the lobby- it was a very small station! Also, for my mobility impaired readers, there were no elevators in the station and to cross the tracks, passengers have to climb stairs to access a pedestrian bridge. I’m sure there’s some mechanism for assisting passengers, but it may be a bit time-intensive and convoluted.
In retrospect, although it worked out to leave my bag in Matsushima, I should have gone with my gut instinct to leave the suitcase at the larger Sendai station with many more lockers. If it hadn’t worked out, I would have had to take a taxi which wouldn’t have been the worst thing.
Komatsukan Kofutei (松島 小松館 好風亭)
When planning my trip, I had a day free before the conference and I was trying to decide between the mountains and the shore. I was initially looking at a mountain onsen, but then I realized the travel would be difficult and long since the mountain onsens are more of a Winter thing. They are four season resorts but from a public transport option, it was spotty in May. So, I decided on the shore and booked a shoreline onsen hotel called Komatsukan Kofutei. It was such a great choice!
Upon walking into the lobby, I was taken aback by the beautiful bay view seen through the floor-to-ceiling windows! It was gorgeous. Check-in was pretty seamless. They use a translation app to go over everything, plus it was helpful to know a little Japanese (but not mandatory!). I was brought to my room and I was even more impressed with the room! I had booked a tatami room because I find them so comfortable- I love sleeping on a futon and I like the subtle straw smell. The view was amazing. After admiring the room, I went downstairs for the welcome snack and beverage.
In addition, I went to the foot onsen where I spoke with an American mother-daughter pair who were visiting the region.
Matsushima Bay Cruise
After the snack, I headed out for a 4p boat cruise. I figured since it was billed as the thing to do, I better do it! The docks were about 1/2 mile away and I walked along the main street. I wanted to go to the local fish market, but it was pretty much closed up. It reminded me of the small Yokosuka Port Market near our old apartment- cool, but not a must see. I sped-walked to the docks and just made the cruise.
The cruise was quite nice. It was a beautiful day. There are a lot of small islands/rock outcroppings, many of which have pine trees on them. For an hour adventure, it was a nice thing to do but again, not a complete must-do. Meaning, if you don’t have time, don’t worry about it!
After the cruise, I walked into the Zuiganji Temple, which was very pretty in the golden hour. There are beautiful trees lining the main access path/road. I didn’t stay long, but it was really nice.
I walked by the Fukuurabashi Bridge, which leads to a small, nature preserve island. I didn’t cross, but planned to the next day.
Back at the hotel, I went to the onsen. I was really confused because I didn’t see the washing stations to use prior to entering the outside onsen. No one was around and I peeked inside the indoor onsen area but didn’t see them either. What was I to do?!? I had showered in my room, but I didn’t want to seem like I was entering the onsen dirty. Well, since no one was around, I just went in. I felt very guilty. Then, of course, when I went into the inside onsen, the wash stations were around the corner. Of course they were! It made no sense that there wouldn’t be any and I should have looked harder earlier. Oh well. At least no one witnessed my onsen protocol breaching shame.
Despite this peak drama, the onsen was delightful! The outside onsen was particularly nice to take in the bay views while relaxing in the hot water. Truthfully, the weather was a little too warm to enjoy the onsen for long (better in the Winter), but it was still really nice.
Sushi Dinner at Sushi-dokoro Ono (すし処 小野)
After my soak, it was time for dinner. I didn’t want to eat at the hotel restaurant by myself, so I planned to go into town. I found a sushi restaurant right around the corner: すし処 小野. I had high hopes for sushi in a port town and they were completely exceeded! This was the best sushi of the entire trip.
The dinner got off to a slightly inauspicious start because the only people inside were two American duos: a husband-wife and two young guys. Was this a tourist trap? Maybe, but the most incredible sushi at reasonable prices so I don’t think so.
I spoke a bit with the other people at the sushi bar. I ordered the omakase as well as a chawanmushi. Seriously, everything was exceptional. The fish was so fresh, the rice in perfect proportion, and the chawanmushi incredibly savory. I might recommend a trip to Matsushima just for the sushi restaurant alone, but that may be slightly ridiculous. But only slightly- it was that good!
I went into the onsen after dinner, but it was so bright and I felt like total privacy couldn’t be guaranteed, so I only stayed for a little bit.
Matsushima morning: Onsen and Fukuurajima
I went for an early morning walk onto Fukuurajima, crossing the long red bridge to the bird refuge island. It was a nice walk. The light was beautiful and it was a nice start to the morning, especially since I was waking up super early due to jet lag.
I had the hotel breakfast set, which was delicious. I ate really, really well in Matsushima!
After breakfast, I went for another onsen soak before leaving. This was different than the previous day’s onsen since they switch genders in the morning. Don’t worry- the signage is very clear! Again, no one was in there so I took a few forbidden photos for the blog!
The hotel provided a shuttle to the train station. It seemed to me that once checkout time arrived, a guest’s time was up and there was no lingering in the onsen areas. The shuttle was nice and delivered me to the station about 10 minutes before the train to Sendai arrived. My time in Matsushima was short and excellent. You don’t really need to stay more than 24 hours although it may be more relaxing to stay for 48 hours. Overall, I highly recommend!
FAQ
How do I get from Tokyo to Matsushima? Take the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Sendai, then transfer to the local JR Tohoku line for a roughly 25-minute ride to Matsushima Station. From the station, it’s about a kilometer walk to most hotels, or a short taxi ride.
Should I leave my luggage in Sendai or Matsushima? Leave large luggage in a locker at Sendai Station. Matsushima Station’s locker bank is small, often has out-of-service lockers, is coin-only, and has no elevator or step-free access across the tracks.
Is the Matsushima Bay cruise worth it? It’s a pleasant hour on the water past small pine-covered islands, but it’s not a must-do if you’re short on time. Worth it if you have a spare hour; skippable if your schedule is tight.
How long should I stay in Matsushima? 24 hours is enough to see the highlights — the bay cruise, Zuiganji Temple, and a night at an onsen hotel. 48 hours gives you a more relaxed pace and time to cross the Fukuurabashi Bridge to Fukuurajima island.