In our trip planning, we wanted to stay on the Right and Left Banks. But how would we transition between the two? How about a three-day, two-night mini-trip within a trip to the Champagne region. SUCH a great idea. I will give no quarter to dissent!
First step, check out of the hotel and bring all.of.our bags to Gare de l’Est via the metro. Um, slightly bad decision but no real harm done. We locked our larger bags into a multi-day locker at the Gare de l’Est (yay) and headed to Reims with our rollerboard suitcases.
Visiting Veuve Clicquot
Our first stop was Veuve Cliqout. This was a repeat for me, but the caves are still just as awe-inspiring and spectacular as the first visit. The element of surprise wasn’t there compared to the first when I didn’t read ahead but really, it didn’t matter.
Because we went to another Champagne house’s chalk caves later, I got to compare caves. The VC caves are most impressive in their connectedness and tunnels length. I really enjoyed the tour and it was Jyotsna’s first visit.
I bought a bottle of Creyeres, which is different than the same-named bottle last year. The bottle is no longer embossed and the dosage is more similar to the global Orange label. So, I’m excited for another head-to-head but it is too bad the bottle is a little less detailed.
We had a glass of the Creyeres and it was quite good. I don’t remember enough from our last head-to-head to make a comparison in my head so I’ll just have to recreate the home tasting head-to-head that we had done at Jyotsna’s earlier in the year. We were on “The Orange Label” tour and our tasting was outside the cave. Last time, we did it inside which is a bit more special, but we enjoyed ourselves this time on a beautiful, champagne perfect day.
Lunch at La Fontaine
For lunch, we went to La Fontaine, which was complet last time I was there with SMS. This time, we were there right at opening so we got one of the tables “reserved” for walk-ins.
The menu du jour consisted of 2 entrées (apps), 2 plats, and 2 desserts. I accidentally ordered a paté appetizer, which I had mistranslated and had been expecting a stew since I saw the word terrine. It was quite good- I just didn’t think too hard about what exactly was in the dish.
For our main, we both got the chicken that was perfectly cooked. It was so good; Jyotsna considers that best dish of the trip. I’m close, but there were really so many good meals I’m not sure if that’s my top. But it was very good.
Also the waiter (maybe owner?) was the nicest, smiliest guy I’ve seen in awhile. Just a real beam of light to all his customers. It was very cool to see- and inspiring!
Ruinart Cellar Tour
After lunch, we left ourselves 30 minutes to get to Ruinart, which should have been plenty of time but instead, two buses never showed and we arrived 10 minutes late. Argh. We called ahead and they brought us into the pre-caves tour living room lecture on the house so really, we didn’t miss too much.
The Ruinart caves are similar but different. They are still impressive in length but not as extensive as VC. BUT, they are so deep- about 140 feet. So, it almost feels like being underwater seeing the daylight so far above. Also, we walked down some stairs carved into the caves, which was really cool.
The tasting was absolutely delicious. We had a vintage/non-vintage blanc de blancs (2013) and rosé (2009). My biggest takeaway is that I really, really like vintage champagne. Champagne AOC rules state minimum 15 months for non-vintage/36 months for vintage with the ability to go beyond that for both NV/V. Because the time on lees is so much more, the savory, aromatic, fullness of the vintage champagnes are phenomenal. It may not be the easy drinking of non-vintage, but it is absolutely delicious. And I can still drink plenty of it!
The other thing I learned is that there’s no benefit to storing nonvintage champagne. It is made to taste the same year-to-year and, in general, be easier to drink. Storing vintage can be advantageous, although only if you’re able to have cave-like conditions related to temperature and light.
Clos de Corbier Hotel
After Ruinart, we started making our way to Épernay. We booked a hotel in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, a village about 6 miles from Épernay and home of Billecart-Salmon, which was our tour for the next day. Le Clos de Corbier was a really nice hotel and a busy tasting spot during the day.
We took the train to Épernay. We bought picnic supplies for dinner at a fromagerie and bakery. At the fromagerie Bons Vivants, we bought Sainte-Philippe (cow, Ile de France), a fresh goat cheese, and Tomme Grise Savoyarde Fermière. At the bakery, the woman gave me 1/2 tradition (baguette) for free because she said it was trop petit. We used those savings to buy sachets de bonbons– delicious gummy candies that are so much chewier in France than the EU. We both loved them.
Then we took an Uber to the hotel. There are only four rooms and reception was closed, but we had let them know our time and they sent a self-checkin video to help us find our room. In addition, it contained the code needed to let us into the somewhat diminutive door relative to the tunnel and its exit into a beautiful yard and garden.
We grabbed a bottle of champagne from the fridge (honor system bar) and had our picnic in the covered outdoor seating area. The Champagne was Domaine Méa Assemblage, 70/30 Pinot noir/chardonay. It was awesome- the weather was perfect and it was just lovely to sit outside.
Another great day!